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Restaurant Review: History wrapped in a tasty tortilla

In the early ’70s, the Ninfa’s on Navigation Boulevard – its original location only 10-15 minutes from campus – helped popularize fajitas, launching a nationwide craze. More than 30 years later it is still wrapping up history daily, making the best fajitas in Houston, and maybe the world.

One of its secrets to creating the perfect chicken fajitas is the lucha gravy. This creamy, tangy, sauce keeps the chicken tender and moist while giving it a very unique flavor with a hint of black pepper and sherry. The chicken is topped with the gravy, laid on a bed of caramelized onions, and brought out sizzling. Fajita portions are very generous here because the meat isn’t weighed until it is cooked, while most restaurants weigh beforehand. A half-pound, what Ninfa’s calls "fajitas for one," easily feeds two people, so bring a friend.

The tortillas are hand-made to just the right thickness, guaranteed not to rip or tear just as you’re going for a bite. The guacamole is smooth with visible chunks of tomato and jalapeno; focusing on bringing out the flavor of the avocado with light additions of citrus, black pepper and garlic.

The chile con queso, served in an extra-large bowl with thick flour tortilla chips, has a very pleasant taste and consistency that pairs well with anything on the menu. Be sure to take note of its hefty $7 price tag, though. Since it is only offered in one size, forget ordering a cheaper, smaller version designed for two.

Both the refried and charro beans are so authentic and flavorful they are often used as the standard all other restaurants try to imitate.

Unlike most Tex-Mex restaurants, Ninfa’s offers two salsa varieties. At first glance the red may seem like the standard, but it has a strong kick sure to weed out the faint-hearted. The green is far friendlier, using green tomatoes, tomatillos, green chili peppers and other secret ingredients. They balance well and are excellent with chips, and have unique effects on different foods.

The tres leches, though incredibly rich, is delectable, sweet and creamy. The three different milks, evaporated, condensed and whole, are used to create a unique texture that isn’t soggy, but keeps the cake moist.

Service here could not possibly be better. It feels like you are a member of the family coming home from a long trip overseas. The historical first room has been preserved to take visitors back to the days when Ninfa’s first started.

For the average student Ninfa’s can seem a little pricy, but bringing a date to share the generous portions makes it affordable. Ninfa’s on Navigation provides a unique experience that Houstonians and visitors alike should experience.

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