When grays, deep reds, and eggplants hit the racks, it means fall is right around the corner. But many designers have decided to approach this autumn differently than before.
This season is confident, bold and powerful, striking down the myth that fall colors have to be muted and dull.
When models walked the runway in February for the fall season, there was a definite sense that designers recognized the economic downturn and, like any graceful lady or gentleman, took it in stride.
Fashion designers took the time to collect themselves, go back to the DNA of their brand and think more creatively.
There is a strong emphasis on empowering women this season by challenging them to take risks and be independent.
‘It’s about creating your own existence as an artist today,’ Zac Posen said.
His collection was a glimpse back in time to glamorous Hollywood.
Vogue’s Meredith Burke also believes it is an important time for women to feel beautiful. Posen definitely delivers.
‘For this moment in time, it is important to give people the opportunity to dream and create their goddess existence,’ Burke said.
This fall, Marc Jacobs leads the way by drawing inspiration from the New York nightclub scene of the early ’80s.
‘I’m not a rebellious guy, but I like the rebellious look,’ Jacobs said.
His namesake line, which began in the early ’80s, was the definitive look of that generation.
Now more than ever is the time to celebrate individuality, and Jacobs’s fall collection is electrically charged with the unique, junkie-socialite look so popular in ’80s culture.
Jacobs produces a beautiful color palette by punctuating the bleak tones of fall and winter with neon colors, zippers and studs.
‘Whereas zippers and studs used to be a silly clich’eacute; of anarchy, it’s no longer that way; it defines identity,’ Jacobs said.
With fall comes the return of the classics. Proenza Schouler, Ralph Lauren and Temperley demonstrated that tweeds don’t have to be boring to keep that classic feel.
Proenza’s tweed jackets were layered with chiffons and velvets accented by lace-up stiletto hiking boots made from oriental rugs. Nothing says classic like a Burberry trench coat.
This season, two of New York Fashion Week’s favorite young designers, Alexander Wang and Thakoon Panichgul are following the theme of empowering women.
Wang molded the glam-punk and rock ‘n’ roll with minimalist black and white.
‘It’s not all about black and white; it’s about texture, tailoring, laminations and form,’ Wang said. ‘We worked a lot with all different types of metals: brass, nickel and gun metal to accent the black and white.’
His inspiration came from the chain mail armor of the medieval ages, and he translated that into the modern day. Panichgul’s collection evolved from prints, to ruffles, to feathers and eventually to heavy coats and drapes. His clothes were dense and full-bodied and, like many of the designers this season, he created the alliterative sense of protection from this time of crisis.
Whether it’s encouraging women to take chances with their wardrobe or literally arming them against the economic crisis, it’s not hard to discern that the world around us has a huge impact on the fashion industry. Yet, in spite of it all, the underlying theme this fall is optimism that everything will be fine, and bad times don’t last forever.
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