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Monday, September 21, 2020

Life + Arts

Beaver’s: not a typical icehouse


For a Texas barbecue joint, Beaver’s doesn’t bother with expectations.

Instead of sawdust-strewn floors and a hunting theme, Beaver’s is clean, modern and unexpectedly hip. And with a glance upon a menu filled with seasonal specials and an impressive wine list, it’s clear that Beaver’s does a disservice by modestly labeling themselves a simple icehouse. It’s a lot more.

Located close to downtown at 2310 Decatur St., Beaver’s is a modest drive from campus and can be easy to miss. With an unassuming exterior not entirely distinguishable from surrounding houses, it’s clear Beaver’s has become one of those can’t miss word-of-mouth eateries. And by servicing the neighborhood as the local icehouse for 30 years, Beaver’s has built a grassroots following that includes T-shirts and Facebook groups.

Once the food arrives, all the fanfare starts making sense. Beaver’s has separate lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch menus that change throughout the year, and none of them disappoint.

For Sunday brunch, Beaver’s new SpamWow sandwich has already become a local legend. Sitting on a slice of Texas toast are three slices of smoked Spam, four substantial pieces of bacon and two fried eggs. Beaver’s dresses the plate with a side of lettuce leaf, tomato and red onion, but their flimsy attempt at providing a healthy aspect to the meal is unconvincing. It’s a meat-lover’s dream that includes everything but the triple-bypass.

For dinner, try the Market Garden Risotto, a Vegan-friendly mix of rice, local mushrooms, smoked tomatoes, sprouts and herbs. It’s refreshing, delicious and palette-cleansing, and entirely unexpected from a restaurant primarily known for their barbecue.

Beaver’s Big D’s Lamb Sandwich is also worth a try. A baguette filled with lamb sausage in an aromatic tomato-vodka cream and topped with goat cheese and basil, it is only $16. A few entrees and a bottle of wine results in a reasonably priced bill. Such a sizable meal that delivers on taste and originality is still considered a bargain in most circles.

Every icehouse still has to deliver on drinks, even if it’s a modern twist on one. Beaver’s has over 80 beers available, selected literally from coast-to-coast, including an eclectic collection of locally brewed beers most patrons would never have the opportunity to taste.

The wine list carries a few equally obscure selections, but each perfectly complements a dish on the menu. And the inventive cocktail selections – the Absinthe and orange-infused Current Affair for example – assuredly carry something for every taste.

Between the warm atmosphere, near-magical food, it’s easy to arrive at Beaver’s looking to spend a couple hours or an entire evening. Beaver’s doesn’t have much in common with the traditional Texas icehouse, but that’s entirely the point.

Beaver’s

Where: 2310 Decatur St.Houston Tx 77007

Phone: 713 864-2328

Verdict: Good food, drink andatmosphere


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