Life + Arts

Big fat Greek restaurant

In 1977, Chris and Eleni Fetokakis opened a fruit stand near the corner of Montrose and Westheimer. Thirty-two years, several renovations and thousands of pounds of feta cheese later, Niko Niko’s still remains one of the top Greek-American restaurants in the city.

A seat-yourself style cafe, Niko Niko’s mixes local flare and historic Grecian culture. The restaurant consists of a spacious dining area and wraparound patio, complete with mist fans for those hot summer nights. Autographed photos and ‘best restaurant’ awards share the walls with work from local artists and Greek classics.

The behind-the-counter service is great. The employees greet you with a smile and are eager to answer any questions about unknown entrees or daily specials. But be prepared to stand in line, as there is always a wait and parking can be a problem during peak hours.

For those visiting Niko Niko’s for the first (or, perhaps their hundredth) time, it is important to try the basics – meat and potatoes, literally speaking. The signature Greek Salad remains a staple of the restaurant and serves as the perfect starter to any meal. Fresh tomatoes, sliced onions, crumbled feta cheese and cucumbers pepper a bed of crisp romaine and iceberg lettuce, all topped with homemade dressing that adds a one-of-a-kind flavor. For those who want to make a meal out of their salad, add grilled shrimp or chicken for an additional charge.

Chicken, beef, lamb, pork – you name the meat and Niko Niko’s probably cooks it. The entrees run the culinary gamut. For those who find it hard to decide on what to get, the Greek Combo is a good choice to make.

The Greek Combo features all the favorites of the restaurant; pastichio, a multi-layered Greek lasagna, moussaka, baked lamb stuffed with a variety of vegetables and keftedes and Greek meatballs. Be sure to bring your wallet, at $17.95 a plate, this big meal comes with a hefty price tag.

For those who do not eat meat, try Yalandji dolmas – grape leaves stuffed with rice and tzatziki sauce. The chickpea, garlic and parsley hummus also create the perfect vegetarian alternative and both selections make for light appetizers.

If you’re still set on getting back to basic food, what would be more fundamental than a sandwich? The Niko Niko’s gyro is a popular Greek-American dish. The savory chopped beef, juicy tomatoes and onions adds a sweetness that is balanced with the tangy tzatziki sauce. All this is wrapped in warm pita bread and is served with potatoes, rice or homemade fries.

No trip to Niko Niko’s would be complete without some dessert, and they have saved the best for last. The baklava is a must try for any Greek food lover; flaky phyllo pastry filled with cinnamon and ground walnuts, topped with a rich honey sauce. If baklava doesn’t suit you, try Athenian Mud Pie, a delicious double fudge brownie topped with a cream cheese crust and drizzled with a rich white chocolate sauce.

An item customers can’t leave without is the loukoumades. Niko Niko’s is the only place in Houston that sells these Greek honey balls, which will compliment any meal.

Niko Niko’s remains the hot spot for Greek-American cuisine in Houston. It is the kind of place you can go for a quick bite on the run or to unwind after a long day. So stop in for some superb food, enthusiastic service and as they say in Greece, ‘opah!’

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