For those dining at Thelma’s Bar-B-Q, here are two tips: Know what you want before you get in line. Don’t ask for substitutions or run the risk of being chastised.
If you can follow these simple guidelines, then prepare for some finger-licking ribs and generous portion sizes.
Owner Thelma Williams, better known as Ms. Thelma, relocated after a fire closed the downtown location in January. She has since settled near the UH campus at 3755 Southmore Blvd. and brought along her nationally famous barbecue and notions of customer service.
Thelma’s is hard to miss. Just look for the bright red one-story house with a parking lot full of cars. If the lot happens to be empty, then they probably closed early because they ran out of food.
Once inside, diners are greeted by an assortment of mismatched tables and a small window for placing orders. Thelma herself is usually there, filling out yellow tickets and telling patrons to listen for their order.
Beef, be it ribs or brisket, is truly the only way to go. The sauce is a bit sweet, yet spicy enough to make you notice. It’s also a bit overpowering because of the amount she places on orders, so going easy is not a bad idea. Otherwise, it’s sauce or no sauce, as there is no such thing as to-go sauce in Thelma’s world unless you pay $2 for a half-pint.
Once you’ve made your decision and navigated the soup nazi-esque ordering process, the enjoyment can begin. Beware, unless you come with a mammoth appetite, you will either leave with a feeling of being defeated or a to-go box, or both.
The brisket is tender enough to split with a butter knife, but with just enough crispy pieces to give you the full brisket experience. The ribs are even better, remaining moist and tender throughout the meal and packing plenty of meat all around the bone. They were a meal alone and, when paired with another meat in the two-meat platter, enough for two people.
All the meats at Thelma’s can be ordered on a sandwich, ‘agrave; la carte, or in a dinner consisting of one, two or three meats. The dinners come with two vegetables and bread. The pinto beans and dirty rice are can’t-miss choices, with the beans having a sweet and creamy sauce and just a bit of kick. The rice is spicy and chock full of bits of meat.
What makes the unique customer-proprietor relationship bearable is a combination of excellent food, large portion sizes and affordable prices. This is especially true for students as the sandwiches are less than $5 and more than enough for lunch. The two-meat dinners are less than $9, with enough to turn leftover lunch into one hell of a midnight-cram session snack. Dessert can’t be too far behind by the looks of the $2 pie-by-the-slice, but it’s definitely something to plan ahead for.
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Thelma’s Bar-B-Q
Where: 3755 Southmore Blvd.
Phone: 713-228-2262
Verdict: Big portions on the cheap. See if you can save room for dessert.
